Hilsa: The end of fish diplomacy between India and Bangladesh?

Folks in India’s West Bengal could face a scarcity of their favorite hilsa fish as hundreds of thousands gear as much as have a good time the state’s largest competition, Durga Puja, in October.

That’s as a result of Bangladesh, the world’s largest producer of the fish, has intensified its crackdown on the transportation of hilsa to neighbouring India, reinforcing a long-standing ban on exports.

The renewed effort, which got here a month after the brand new authorities took office, is to make sure that the prized fish stays extra accessible to customers in Bangladesh, in keeping with Farida Akhter, adviser to the Bangladesh ministry of fisheries and livestock.

“A variety of fish is [still] going from Bangladesh to India [despite the ban]. This time we won’t enable the hilsa to cross the border,” she instructed the BBC.

Hilsa is Bangladesh’s nationwide fish however it’s a luxurious, inexpensive just for the wealthy and center class; the poor cannot purchase it.

“The earlier authorities would raise the ban throughout the Durga Puja competition. They used to name it a present. This time I don’t assume we have to give a present as a result of [if we do it] our folks won’t be able to eat the fish whereas it’s allowed to be exported to India in massive numbers,” Akhter mentioned.

This stand marks a transparent departure from deposed former prime minister Sheikh Hasina’s famend “hilsa diplomacy” with India, the place she usually allowed consignments of the fish to be transported to India throughout the competition season.

Hasina has despatched hilsa to West Bengal chief minister Mamata Banerjee on numerous events. Hoping to resolve a long-standing water dispute, she additionally gifted 30kg of hilsa to the then Indian president Pranab Mukherjee in 2017.

Hasina was removed dramatically on 5 August after weeks of student-led protests that escalated into lethal nationwide unrest. Initially anticipated to remain in India briefly, her asylum makes an attempt within the UK, US, and UAE have up to now failed.

Her ongoing presence in India has additionally complicated Delhi’s efforts to construct a powerful relationship with the brand new interim authorities in Dhaka. For India, Bangladesh is a key strategic companion and ally, very important for border safety, particularly within the northeastern states.

Requested whether or not the brand new interim authorities might have made a goodwill gesture to India by permitting provide of hilsa, Akhter mentioned: “We can have goodwill gestures in all different methods. They’re our pals. However we should always not do something by depriving our (personal) folks.

“The query of goodwill is separate from this [question of allowing export of hilsa].”

Bangladesh is the main producer of hilsa (Tenualosa ilisha), a type of species of fish associated to the herring, ample within the Bay of Bengal and in addition thriving in rivers.

The fish accounts for about 12% of the nation’s whole fish manufacturing and contributes round 1% to its GDP. Fishermen catch as much as 600,000 tonnes of the fish yearly, nearly all of the haul coming from the ocean. In 2017, hilsa was recognised as a Geographical Indicator (GI) for the nation.

In previous years, the federal government permitted the export of three,000-5,000 tonnes of hilsa yearly throughout Durga Puja, Nripendra Nath Biswas, a senior fisheries official, instructed The Daily Star newspaper.

“However contemplating the shortage of fish within the nation, the federal government has determined to impose a ban on hilsa exports this yr,” he mentioned.

However Bangladeshi media studies point out that hilsa costs have surged within the native market regardless of the continuing export ban.

A 1.5kg hilsa was promoting for round 1,800 taka ($15; £11.50), 1.2kg for 1,600 taka, and one kg for 1,500 taka. These costs are 150-200 taka larger than final yr, say merchants.

Fishermen attribute the worth improve to poor catches. “Previously three months, we tried to go to sea 5 occasions however needed to flip again as a result of tough climate,” mentioned Hossain Miah, a fisherman.

Hilsa holds an nearly sacred standing amongst Bengalis on either side of the border, and its shortage will frustrate many.

The fish is well known for its versatility, usually cooked in a wide range of methods similar to steamed with mustard paste, which boosts its delicate flavour, or fried with a light-weight coating of spices for a crispy texture.

Bengali-American meals historian and writer Chitrita Banerji is among the many many writers who’ve raved concerning the fish.

“I feel its enduring position as an icon of Bengali meals is a mixture of many parts, not the least being its bodily magnificence, which has led Bengali writers to explain it because the darling of the waters or a prince amongst fish,” she instructed an interviewer.

“And its tender flesh (bony although it might be), mixed with an emollient texture and beautiful flavour, lends itself to an infinite number of culinary preparations.”